Touch Beijing by bike

The best way to explore Old Peking is by bicycle. The ride between Ditan Park and Coal Hill includes some of the city's most famous sights and finest hutong.

Begin at Ditan Gongyuan (Temple of Earth Park), just north of the Second Ring Road on Yonghegong Jie. Park your bike in the lot outside the south gate and take a quick walk. Next, ride south along Yonghegong Jie until you come to the main entrance of Yonghegong (Lama Temple), Beijing's largest and most ornate Tibetan Buddhist temple. Running west, across the street from the temple's main gate, is Guozijian Jie. Shops near the intersection sell Buddhist statues, incense, texts (in Chinese), and tapes of traditional Chinese Buddhist music. Browse them before riding west to Kong Miao (Temple of Confucius) and the neighboring Guozijian (Imperial Academy). The arches spanning Guozijian Jie are the only ones of their kind remaining in Beijing.

Follow Guozijian Jie west until it empties onto Andingmennei Dajie. Enter this busy road with care (there is no traffic signal) and ride south to Guloudong Dajie, another major thoroughfare. Turn right (west) and ride to the Gulou (Drum Tower).

From the Drum Tower detour through the alleys just north to the Zhonglou (Bell Tower). A market of tiny noodle stalls and restaurants links the two landmarks.

Retrace your route south to Dianmenwai Dajie (the road running south from the Drum Tower), turning onto Yandai Jie, the first lane on the right. A board on the right explains that makers of long-stem pipes once lined the lane's narrow way (one small shop still sells pipes). Sadly, much of the area is slated for redevelopment.

Wind northwest on Yandai Jie past guesthouses, bicycle repair shops, tiny restaurants, and crumbling traditional courtyard houses toward Houhai Park. Turn left onto Xiaoqiaoli Hutong and find the arched bridge that separates Houhai and Qianhai lakes. Before the bridge, follow the trail along Houhai's north shore, traveling west toward Song Qingling Guju (Soong Ching-ling's Former Residence). Circle the lake until you arrive at Deshengmennei Dajie. Follow it south to the second alley, turning east (left) onto Yangfang Hutong, which leads back to the arched bridge.

Park your bike in the first alley off Yangfang Hutong, Dongming Hutong, and walk toward the lake. At the footpath and market that hugs its banks, turn left and walk about 100 yards to find a tiny lane lined with antiques and curio shops.

After bargain hunting, ride along Yangfang Hutong past the stone bridge and follow Qianhai Lake's west bank. Sip a soda, beer, or tea at the teahouse pavilion on the lake. Continue along the lane to Qianhai Xijie, then fork right (northwest) just after a restaurant sign bearing a large heart. Nearby, but difficult to find, is Gongwangfu (Prince Gong's Palace), 300 yards north of the China Conservatory of Music. Look for a brass plaque.

Allow half a day for this ride, longer if you expect to linger at the sights or explore the parks on foot.

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